Quarterly Newsletter — Summer 2024

Lacis Museum of Lace & Textiles

This Month's Contents:

A letter to our friends

CUSTOMER PROJECTS    Gitty Duncan's brogues, Madeline's bucket hat
NOTABLE DONATIONS    A beaded purse — a Victorian beaded capelet — and Armenian needlelace

Upcoming Exhibits @ Lacis Museum

ARMENIAN NEEDLELACE    Poetry in Thread
MINIATURE NEEDLEPOINT RUGS    by Toby St. John

Current Exhibits @ Lacis Museum

TRANSCENDING FASHION    The Lace Accessory
DAY'S END    Personal Glamour Exposed
AUBUSSON TAPESTRY    The Stag at Bay
TEMARI    A Toy Transcends to Textile Art

Recently sold in our Etsy shop

BALLOON-SLEEVED    1900s dress in cotton and silk

New products & publications

Mending Life    A Handbook for Repairing Clothes and Hearts

Customer of the Month

LaToya Tooles    Tooling around in time — and reclaiming historical costume

Classes @ Lacis Museum

COUNTED CROSS-STITCH    with Mayuri Desai
KOMEBUKURU & HAND QUILTING    with Pattie Klimek
THREE LEAVES & A CALYX    with D. L. Popplewell
SILK RIBBON FLOWERS &
                EMBROIDERY MAGIC
    with Laura Tandeske

Textile arts calendar

THE HINABI PROJECT    brings their Inabel Exhibit to Sentro Filipino

A note from the Director


A Letter To Our Friends

We pride ourselves on the glorious diversity of our visitors at Lacis Museum, but on some days, it does seem that fathers are a curiously underrepresented demographic here. Go figure!

It's easy to take for granted how we cherish our sisterhood of sewing and textile arts wisdom of our community's matriarchs. How we express our feelings of deepest maternal care and affection through acts like repairing, knitting, and embroidering the garments for those we hold close — how to us, mending for them, clothing them, is its own love language, a legitimate form of self-care. The pater familias is rather neglected in this kind of narrative!
    In an attempt to remedy this slight representational imbalance, we're having a store-wide sale in our Etsy shop where you can use promocode  FATHERSDAY2024  to receive 20% off any order over $60. It'll run all through June! Be sure to check out our listings — we have over 400 items online, ranging from clothes, jewelry, and accessories to antique and vintage home goods, so there's sure to be something special that'll catch your eye!


We're so glad you good folks have been coming in regularly for our bi-weekly craft circles!

Sometimes you just need a dedicated moment to spend with your stitching project, along with some outside reinforcement in the form of positive support. Plus, a dose of strong, natural light, gently filtered by the enormous old magnolia tree that stands sentinel at our front door never hurts...
    Please note these plush petrol-blue velvet swivel-chairs that now beautify our Creative Commonspace! They were donated to us by the legendary San Francisco School of Needle Arts & Design and we have to say, they have REALLY elevated the vibe and comfort factor in that little area!


And a big shout-out goes to our new volunteers who've been lending us a hand lately!

As you've no doubt heard, we have a few major events going down this fall. Our 20th Anniversary Fundraiser Sale and Open House event will be Satuday, September 7, and the opening of our next exhibition of Armenian needlelace on Friday, August 9. Textile conservationists Hofi Man and Alison Moule, Rebecca Riley of the Richmond Art Center, and Anaís have been generously giving their time to Lacis Museum and helping us to prepare!

We are so honored to be on the recieving end of your selfless service and hard work. Our most heartfelt thanks go out to you, and the whole LMLT community, for the abundant support and enthusiasm we feel and hear from you all each day. Without your regular presence, positive feedback and brilliant ideas, effervescent creativity, and deep appreciation, Lacis Museum simply wouldn't be the uniquely magical place it is today.





Customer Projects

Gitty Duncan has continued cranking out the beautiful shoes like nobody's business. You probably remember other shoes she's made from previous newsletters (like May of last year), but these ones, we are certain, take the cake.

An artist who specializes in sculpture, puppetry, painting, costume and set design, Gitty teaches puppetry and storytelling to children in Berkeley. It seems a natural fit: even her shoes tell a dreamy story. They're like imports straight from a world of fantasy and fun.
    These dark blue leather brogues with the summery clusters of oranges are so pleasing. Citrus fruit imagery is a theme we're seeing appear again and again in Gitty's beautiful, wearable, functional art pieces that are guaranteed to become heirlooms into the next generation. Seeing them take form has given us so much joy!
    Thank you Gitty, for sharing your magical shoes with us!




Customer Projects



We were so charmed by Madeline's adorable bucket hat!

Madeline came in to sign up for a class (Silk Ribbon Embroidery with Laura Tandeske!), and had never been to Lacis before! We were eager to show her around — but not before we found out all about this adorable piece she was wearing.
    She took a thrift store hat with a good base shape and dressed it all up with scraps of tapestry- and brocade-looking fabrics for an incredibly cute, boho look. The earthy palette, subtle symphony of textures, and mix of floral decorations (one made of wired ribbon, the other crochet) were all perfectly on point.
    If you enjoy her hat as much as we do, and covet it for yourself, never fear. "I followed Traci Myer's fun easy tutorial to make my scrappy bucket hat," says Madeline. "I love sharing creative ideas, so I must give her credit!" That's the spirit!
    So glad to make your acquaintance, Madeline. We love when Lacis Museum is a new discovery for creative souls who make and wear their art. The synergy, the sizzle and spark of inspiration, is palpable — you guys bring this place to life!


Notable Donations

Among this past month's notable donations: this immaculately preserved, extraordinarily detailed beaded purse, the generous gift of Beth Kupper.

Beth's mother, a great lover of history and textiles, devoted weaver and longtime Sheep to Shawl enthusiast, and longtime Lacis friend had likely found it at Lacis, decades ago.
    If we had to guess, it looks as if it were made from a repurposed Victorian wool paisley shawl, probably dating to at least 1890; the existing design was embellished with tiny steel seed beads, and there is even some loving embroidery on the inside, where the lining meets the silver clasp/frame hardware. This was a design popular well into the 1910s and you can find plenty of extant examples just like it from the '20s-'40s — and even recurring into the '60s — but rarely are they as perfect as this specimen.
    We welcome it home and thank Beth for her thoughtful consideration in restoring it to the bosom of a place where it shall enjoy the spotlight once more, provide inspiration and visual delight, allowing our newsletter readers and Lacis Museum visitors to relish once again its great beauty and incredibly workmanship.
    It just goes to show that the enduring spirit of such precious objects, tastefully executed, lovingly stewarded, will never die.


Notable Donations

Kristy Lingner, an aspiring glass lampworker based in Sacramento, made the trip to Lacis Museum to deliver into our arms this incredible black beaded Victorian capelet piece.

Although in a fragile state — merely looking upon it seemed to have a deletrious effect, and an ill-timed sneeze while handling would have been absolutely devastating to it — it was a stunning piece that our Museum Director and Curator, Jules Kliot, elected to retain for the permanent collection. Crumbling to pieces or not, its great beauty remains undeniable.
    It's hard to describe it as a capelet, really, but whatever this intricate decorative device was, it definitely draped over the back of a garment now long since disintegrated. Kristy's grandmother had purchased it decades ago, and made a very noble attempt at restoring parts of its beaded designs.
    Now we have the great honor of sharing it with you! Just look at that elaborately beaded netting, that




Notable Donations

We were thrilled and pleasantly surprised when Diane O'Connell recently donated these stunning pieces of Armenian needlelace.

Her timing couldn't have been more perfect, as we are currently preparing an Armenian needlelace exhibit set to open in August. Diane shared the fascinating story of her Armenian heritage and how she came to inherit these cherished family heirlooms. Some of the pieces are truly unique, unlike any we've seen before! Be sure to take a look at the beautiful orange and white variegated pieces, which were part of a larger set used as antimacassars on her grandmother's armchair — a fond memory from her childhood.




Thank you, Diane, not just for your generous donation, but also for sharing your experience and family story. Inspired by this serendipity aligning with our mission and resonating within the broader Armenian community, we hope this exhibit will become a vibrant hub for celebrating and preserving Armenian culture, propelled by community, with our collection serving as the seed for action.





Upcoming Exhibits at Lacis Museum

Opening Friday, August 9, 2024

Armenian Needlelace: Poetry in Thread

As strong as it is delicate, Armenian needlelace is among humanity's oldest and most intricate forms of needlework, evoking mountains and rainbows of home.

Armenian needlelace's distinctive interlacing patterns, thought to trap or confuse evil spirits and intentions, also appear on ancient Armenian architecture and stone carvings, depicting Earth-honoring elements of culture and place.

Lacis Museum's permanent collection in Berkeley, California is home to thousands of precious works of textile art, but perhaps the most remarkable and splendid of them all are the hundreds of delicate Armenian needlelace circles.
    We're excited and proud to announce a forthcoming new exhibition of Armenian needlelace, opening upstairs in our northwest wing on Friday, August 9, 2024.



Upcoming Exhibits at Lacis Museum

Coming soon on Monday, July 1, 2024

The Miniature Middle Eastern Needlepoint Rugs

of Toby St. John

For decades, professional photographer and music publisher Toby St. John (www.tobyzphotos.com) has been captivated by Middle Eastern rugs.

The intricate patterns and rich colors have so deeply fascinated Toby that she had to channel this obsession. To reproduce miniature dollhouse-sized Middle Eastern rugs herself, she finds rugs in books, then scans, prints, and attaches their images to the canvas, where she then painstakingly copies the designs in embroidery thread.
    Entirely self-taught, Toby's meticulous craftsmanship has led her to produce dozens of these miniature masterpieces over the course of 25 years. Her dedication is evident in the time she invests: "The larger rugs usually take me about eight months," she notes, "and the smaller ones around five." Her steady, patient work over the years has resulted in a prolific collection that showcases her passion and skill. We can't wait to share them with you all this summer!

Stay tuned: starting July 1, we'll be sharing a portion of Toby St. John's extraordinary work in our front entrance display case for all our visitors to see.



Currently on Exhibition at Lacis Museum

Available for viewing by appointment

Transcending Fashion: The Lace Accessory

Accessories define us and set us apart from others in the world of fashion.

From the Middle Ages to the present day, collars have been a significant part of fashion. The great ruff, a collar worn in the Renaissance, was the most outlandish statement of costume. Over time, collars evolved into many related objects of adornment that made timeless statements about our personality.
    We invite you to experience a tour highlighting the stunning artistry of European lace collars and handkerchiefs, and their use as a means of expression, with pieces from the 17th century to the early 20th.



Available for viewing by appointment

Day's End: Personal Glamour Exposed

Ongoing until April, Day's End is a joyful exploration of the sensuous and gorgeous things we wear in private, such as nightgowns, robes, and pajamas. It celebrates our most intimate items of clothing: the things never worn around strangers or out of the house.



On display at our main entrance

Aubusson Tapestry: The Stag At Bay

The Aubusson tapestry-weaving tradition has continued almost unbroken since the 1300s, when its small weaving industry was first established.

There was a hiatus in the 1700 and 1800s, but its 20th-century revival peaked in about 1911.
    The piece you'll see here at Lacis Museum dates from after the 1950s, but the methods used in its manufacture are extremely close to those of the artisans centuries ago. In fact, in 2019, Aubusson tapestries were declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.
    Is your interest piqued yet? Read more about the fascinating history of the The Stag at Bay tapestry in our June 2023 newsletter. And see it in person in our museum shop — it stands sentinel over the portal between our first and second rooms.


On display at our main entrance

Temari: A Toy Transcends to Textile Art

To put it simply, temari are balls made of wrapped thread. They're traditional Japanese playthings for nobility — a toy for children — and particularly a gift for a male child.

But they're so much more than that. Now, they're considered a highly auspicious gift, a rare and fabulously ornate textile art form. They carry with them an association with sacred and rarefied things: nobility and court maids, maternity and childrearing, good fortune and geometry...
    As you come in through our doors, be sure to take a glance to your left. Inside the glass display case, we have arrayed a number of these prized temari. And if your curiousity is aroused, you can read more about temari in our April 2023 newsletter. And if you can't get around to Berkeley to see these jewel-like wonders, don't worry, we have pictures online.


Recently Sold in Our Etsy Shop

Balloon-sleeved 1900s dress in cotton and silk

"Exquisitely beautiful and even better quality than I expected for an antique dress of this age," wrote Lisa. "Thrilled! Thank you!"

You're so very welcome, Lisa! We're so glad you appreciate this piece as much as we do, with all its incredible details. The Pouter Pigeon "monobosom" silhouette. The cape collar. Those BALLOON SLEEVES, with eight rows of shirring. It has us swooning! We sure hope you enjoy it.






New products and publications

Mending Life: A Handbook

"A handbook for repairing clothes and hearts," indeed.

In a world full of broken relationships, broken social systems, broken spirits and sorrows... mending in an act of asserting that love and repair can conquer everything. That nothing is beyond restoring to its original purpose and glory.
    The illustrations and text is sincerely heartfelt, touching, understated and full of truth and immediacy. To mend is to heal. And we are all capable of mending.


Customer of the Month

LaToya Tooles: Tooling around in time — and reclaiming historical costume for all

We were introduced to the brilliant LaToya Tooles when she was working on a Victorian bonnet.

Having come to Lacis for years already, LaToya knew our inventory inside out and navigated the complexities of our shop layout with ease. Her organizational skills left us in awe; she arrived with a meticulously arranged collection of fabric swatches, perfectly prepared to be matched with trim. It wasn't long before we also discovered her exceptional sewing skills and extensive experience!


The interpretation — and the inspiration.

LaToya's vast knowledge of period costume was revealed in casual conversation, and her unwavering dedication to social justice and activism was made clear to us over the years.

In 2020, she was instrumental in launching the Londoners of the African Diaspora at Dickens Fair. This initiative crucially highlighted the unique experiences of BIPOC participants in the interactive Victorian-themed attraction, emphasizing that their experiences differ significantly from those of white participants. She found the situation unconscionable; a welcoming, inclusive, and equitable costuming community should be a given. We couldn't agree more.
     While much of today's costuming community owes much to the counter-culture movement of the 1960s, when we heard about the experiences of our friends within the community who have experienced racist harassment, becomes clear that all things can become overdue for an update.


Whenever LaToya visits us, it feels like basking in the light of the sun. Her cheerful, friendly energy, her warmth, and her passion are magnetic.

As if that isn't enough, her professional accomplishments aren't to be overlooked, either. A graduate of the Columbia School of Journalism, LaToya did crucial work with Youth Radio of Oakland (now YR Media) to help the next generation of radio journalists find their voices and express their truth. Faculty lecturer at San Francisco State, audio-mixing maven, news editor, and history-bounding time-traveler??
    There's nothing that this woman can't do. LaToya, we applaud you! Thank you for all your inspiration, for sharing your talents and courage with the world.




Catherine Scholar's "Be Your Own Modiste: Make a Regency Gown" workshop was such a pleasure to witness. Everyone's fabric choices for their dresses was so impressive — there was such immense beauty and talent in one small space!

Classes @ Lacis Museum

Cross stitch! Japanese rice bags! Ribbon leaves!

Learn how to do cross stitch with this project, led by Mayuri Desai!

Get ready to stitch up some fun this summer with our brand-new quilting and embroidery classes!

We are thrilled to introduce our newest instructor at Lacis Museum, Mayuri Desai! As a recently retired physician, Mayuri embodies the true meaning of "doctor," which comes from the Latin word for "teacher." Her extensive experience and refined techniques in cross-stitching make her a perfect addition to our team. Mayuri has completed an impressive variety of cross-stitch projects and is eager to share her knowledge. Join her class taking place on Saturday, September 28 to gain a comprehensive understanding of this beautiful craft and start your own cross-stitch journey with confidence!

Here is just a small sampler of pieces that showcase the diverse subjects and inspirational messages that Mayuri has lovingly created in her devotion to her cross-stitch hobby.

Fan favorite Pattie Klimek will be teaching not just one, but two classes very soon — and both are extended-length, two-session workshops!

Saturday, July 13 & July 20 her students will be constructing komebukuro — Japanese rice bags. That's a literal translation, since kome is rice and bukuro is bag. Very direct and to the point! These drawstring devices represent the perfect opportunity for you guys to do some "stash busting" — that is, draw from your accumulated resources of beautiful leftover scraps and fragments. By embellishing them under Pattie's guidance with sashiko, those disparate pieces will be unified and strengthened for decades of future use. And look at how perfectly proportioned this bag is!
    There's a reason for that perfection. It's actually just the right size for an offering of rice! Pilgrims and devotees seeking the blessings of a temple would come carrying a unit of rice of approximately this volume. You, however, can use it to carry your necessities — or maybe a your sewing and crafting kit...?
    Carryology has a rather interesting article on the topic in their insights into "carry culture." We can't wait to see the amazing bags Pattie's students create! She'll help you add sashiko stitching to enhance their patchwork feeling. They're sure to be unique works of art, beautiful manifestations of each creative student's inner world.

And that's another delightful surprise you'll find in these bags of Pattie's... if a distressed, organic, vintage-feeling fabric is your aesthetic, then you'll find the lining's as often as beautiful as the outer shell. In fact, you could easily make your komebukuro reversible.



At the end of the summer, we'll be joyously ringing in another new teacher: D. L. Popplewell!

This August — Saturday, August 10 to be precise — she'll be showing you the ins and outs of ribbon foliage and flowers. Her class is called Three Leaves and a Calyx — the project is depicted on the left here — very exciting for you milliners looking to create vintage floral applique decor.
    As D. L. says, leaves are the supporting chorus for the flowers, and mustn't be neglected!
    Registration hasn't officially opened for this class yet, but if you're interested, simply give us a ring — we'll get you signed up. It's been a while since our last ribbon workshop, and we bet you flower fans and aficionados are ready to unfurl your creativity!

Some of D. L.'s work with wired ribbon.

And if ribbon flowers are what you're looking for...

You can actually get started straightaway with a class that's coming up very soon:
    Laura Tandeske's Silk Ribbon Flowers! This is a wonderful technique you can use to embellish just about anything with very cute, detailed little floral elements. It add the best little cottage-core sweetness to accessories, garments, home decor items... Sign up fast, if you're interested, because it's going down this coming Saturday, June 15!

Not only that, but Laura's Embroidery Magic workshop — now expanded to 5 days, thanks to overwhelming student demand — is also coming up soon. It begins Monday, June 17, and we just can't wait!

Connect with a tight-knit, welcoming community in this exciting upcoming workshop, open to everyone from beginners to experienced embroiderers. Together, you'll delve deep into the art of surface embroidery and learn to imbue your work with intention.

Across a plethora of cultures and generations, embroidery has been used for protection and manifestation, with each symbol, color, and stitch carrying unique significance.
    From the Evil Eye-dispelling Hamsa hand and the celestial motifs of Suzani embroidery from North Africa and the Middle East to the Kuna Molas of Panama and the crosses and stars found in Ukrainian embroidery, it's stunning how the simplest tools — a little needle and thread — can result in the most gorgeous explosions of color, pattern, and imagery, full of power and meaning.
    Laura will take you on a journey of exploration, where you'll discover how even simple stitches can hold deep significance. Celebrate the joy and therapeutic benefits of practicing the needle arts in a supportive environment — and thread magic into your garments, your home, your entire textile world.


Textile Arts Calendar

Special events in the Bay Area and beyond



"As one of the Philippines' beautiful attractions, Ilocos Norte is unique with its amazing cultures and traditions. In the vibrant tapestry of the Philippines, nestled among the mountains and vast rice fields, there exists a cultural gem that threads through history, heritage, and time. It's known as 'Inabel,' a traditional handwoven fabric that carries the soul of the Ilocanos. In the rhythmic clatter of looms and the intricate patterns of their deep-rooted significance, Inabel weaves stories of the Philippines' rich and diverse cultural heritage."

INABEL: THE TIMELESS ART OF WEAVING STORIES IN THREADS
Republic of the Philippines Department of Science & Technology

This month, The Hinabi Project's Inabel Exhibit will be at Sentro Filipino! This special showing of traditional Ilocos weaving features fine vintage and antique as well as contemporary and commissioned pieces.



Saturday, June 22: Geologist and Naturalist Retreat

Dig for fossils, have your likeness reproduced by tintype, and listen to a historical and scientific lecture by Mary Anning herself! Miss Anning would like to share her latest discoveries with you. Come hear about what it's like to be a working woman combing the cliffs and beaches of Lyme Regis to find fossils from the Jurassic age.


Saturday, August 3: Alameda 1900: A Picnic Dance in the Park

Pack a picnic basket, don your most fetching hat, and join us for an elegant Edwardian picnic among the roses in Old Alameda, followed by a vintage dance with live music by the celebrated Greenwich Mean Time band.



Saturday, July 27: House of Worth

Join us for a 2.5-hr workshop exploring the designer who set the standard for haute couture around the globe, a man whose brilliant design and business acumen created a fashion empire known by simply one word: Worth.






Our friends at the Bay Area Sewists Group will be throwing their annual Frocktails gala on Sunday, July 28! They'll be convening once again for a wonderful afternoon of conversation, drinks, and connecting with other sewists over all things handmade. Don't miss the fun fashion show and exciting raffle prize giveaway — there are SO many generous sponsors who will be contributing to the loot, and Lacis Museum is proud to be once of them. We've contributed an Annual Museum Membership as well as a cute faux-leather carrying case BURSTING with charming vintage linens. We're excited to meet the lucky sewist who'll be our next honorary member!


A Message from our Director


A Museum operating in these unbelievable times is surely challenged to find meaning and understanding, the function of any museum. What was up is now down. facts and truth are no longer synonymous, right and wrong, the subject of discussion
The museum survives on the past, who we were and the survival of our contributions.
The future is beyond our scope and survival not a certainty.
It is however in our hands.

— Jules Kliot