Contents in This Month's Issue
Welcome to the March edition of our newsletter! We hope you're looking forward to the first day of Spring as much as we are... it's been a long winter, and we're excited for a fresh new beginning.
Our popular exhibit Worn to Dance: 1920s Fashion & Beading will be closing on Saturday, March 12, 2022. If you've been considering whether or not to see this marvelous display of over thirty ensembles, from flapper dresses to opera coats and wedding apparel, as well as dozens of fabulous beaded purses—or, perhaps, if you've already seen Worn to Dance and simply wish to revisit it one more time?—this is your last chance!
There's often a silver lining to bittersweet announcements, though. In our case, this beloved exhibit will be coming down in anticipation of the installation of an elevator to service the second-floor gallery and classrooms. This will improve our accessibility for all visitors, and that's certainly something to celebrate!
Kaethe and Dottie, 1979
Longtime Lacis friend Dottie dropped by in February and surprised us with this wonderful photograph of herself and Kaethe (left).
When this picture was taken, Dottie and Kaethe were attending a meeting of what was then known as "The International Old Lacers, Inc." In 2012, this non-profit organization dedicated to the study and preservation of all types of laces changed its name to The International Organization of Lace, Inc. (IOLI).
Lace was certainly a passion for Kaethe and remains one for her husband, Jules, our Curator and Museum Director. Her presence inhabits the museum, whether it is her handwriting on a label or her monumental bobbin lace "Firebird" piece currently gracing our Birds in the Textile Arts exhibit. We will display Dottie's photo in the shop as well!
Molly's Dream Coat and Lynn's Babe in Lace
We love it when our talented Lacis visitors are working on a project and show us a photo, or even bring in the project itself! Inspiration abounds in this place, and that's in no small part thanks to you. Read our Customer of the Month section for even more amazing work done by our Lacis friends.
How beautiful is this?? Molly had just barely put the finishing touches on this incredible recycled quilt-to-coat transformation when she threw it on to pay us a little visit and get more sewing supplies! The quilt had been long-abandoned in an attic when Molly found it; it wasn't in the greatest condition, but still, for her purposes, very servicable. The shearling collar she added was some leftover deadstock from Coach (the purse company).
It was her "first make of 2022," and she started it on Jan 1st, and these pictures were taken almost exactly a week later. It involved lots of handmade and hand-sewn bias binding!
We think this is an epic coat, made for great journeys. We just want to fill up those gorgeous, capacious pockets with an assortment of useful tiny things, our fists when it's cold, maybe a snack or two—an apple would fit there nicely...
Excellent work, Molly! We love that this quilt was rescued from an attic to ultimately become an ultra-stylish, cottage-core-cozy heirloom jacket. Such a happy ending.
Molly is the co-creator of an artist-run gallery project called Take Care in LA. If you enjoyed this coat, you'll enjoy her other work, too, so check out her Instagram!
Lynn Berglund, an artist who usually relies on encaustics and wax in her sculptural art, has been lately incorporating textiles in her work, such as this netted piece you see here! She painted it so that it retains an undulating, organic shape. This is the first in a series she's been working on called "Babes and Lace." What a creative way to incorporate doilies into a contemporary setting! Good job, Lynn, and thanks for sharing with us.
Tours are by appointment only
Opening reception event | Images from the exhibit
Detail from "6 Fighting Birds on a Buddhist Shawl" [12441]
The bird in literature and on canvas has long held its place through all civilizations and all times.
The bird captured in thread and textiles is more obscure and less defined. Depicted by a single thread, a bountiful palette of threads, a thread following a hook or threads flowing in harmony through the bobbins of lace, the bird is captured by the hands of the creator.
This amazing presentation captures this spirit from Pre-Columbian Peru to the earliest of laces to a world of unbound wealth of thread, color and needle.
For Katherine Bond of Berkeley, the exhibit was, in her words, "Spectacular!" She was "speechless at the display of time, quality, variety and geography of the works."
Visitor Virginia Davis was similarly floored, enthusing that it was "totally FABULOUS."
Paula and Rob Patterson, who came to visit all the way from Colorado, said that, "As birders, we so appreciated this exhibit. Thank you!"
Lacis Museum member Blair Van Tassel felt the same way: "Beyond amazing details," she agreed.
If you find you're still hankering for birds after a tour of our Bird in the Textile Arts exhibit, then be sure to take a look at these beauties, too.
These beautiful examples of Mola are representative of a recent donation from Carolyn Stratton Darby Gragg, of Piedmont. They were obtained—literally—in the waters of Panama:
"We spent quite a bit of time there visiting while we were on our sailboat in 2008. We bartered for some of them with fishing gear, i.e. hooks, lines, buckets and with sewing and school supplies."
The Kuna people would navigate their small boats (dugout canoes called ulu) out into the bay of the archipelago, where Carolyn's own vessel was anchored, to make these trades.
A traditional art form of the Kuna people of Panama on the San Blas Islands, the Mola panels are part of their traditional costume, with matching panels worn on the front and back of a blouse.
The distinctive Mola employs a reverse-applique base using multiple layers of colorful fabric, with surface embroidery embellishments that complement the designs.
Themes range from the purely organic to geometric, with the colorful local bird population as an obvious subject—a fitting tie-in to our newly-opened exhibit, The Bird in the Textile Arts. When you get a chance, drop into the Museum Shop to see eight of Carolyn's gorgeous Mola panels on display!
Can't get enough of these electrifying colors, and tales of ocean voyages, exploration and adventure? Blogger Mira Nencheva of The Life Nomadik extensively documented her time among the Kuna people, in writing and photographs—including about their aforementioned style of nautical trading and their Mola-making tradition.
The University of Oregon's Museum of Natural and Cultural History has some nice Molas available to look at online, too.
Sections of the Shetland Lace Sampler of Cathy Adair-Clark
This generous donation of decorative textile artworks from Cathy Adair-Clark is a tour de force of talent and devotion to the world of needlework, specifically her world of knitting and Shetland yarns: "I fell in love with Shetland sheep and their fleeces, and that has ruled my life since 2007."
The magnificent Shetland lace sampler she constructed in 2012 is 8 feet by 6½ feet, comprising 67 different fleeces of yarn, all hand-spun by Cathy herself. We also have her personally compiled tome of sketches available for your perusal, with each motif and its pattern, along with sources and progress reports, all passionately and fastidiously documented.
Now open for tours by appointment!
• Masks are required for all individuals
• Tours are $3.00 per person and must be reserved in advance—calling us at (510) 843-7290 is best
• Tours can be scheduled for Monday, Tuesday or Saturday at 1:00 PM & 3:00 PM
• Tours have a (2) person minimum & (10) person maximum
• For Museum Members and their guests (4 max), tours are free!
• Please note that the second-floor gallery at this time is only accessible via stairs
Almost 100 years ago, with the dawn of the Jazz Age, life changed dramatically for women in America. Suddenly the 1920s woman could vote, drive, spend her own money, smoke and drink in public, cut off her long hair, expose her calves, forgo her corset and—perhaps most iconic of all—she could dance.
The most iconic pastime of the 1920s was dancing in nightclubs and speakeasies. Here women and men could freely socialize to the rhythm of Hot Jazz.
That rhythm is most clearly made visual in the image of the flapper, with her (relatively) short dress, which sparkled in the dim lights, given heft, form and movement by the innumerable beads sewed to its simple shift-shaped form.
These dresses, like the Jazz Age itself, were never destined to last. With the weight of the beads continually testing their union with the fragile silk, their eventual collapse was inevitable, as evidenced by the beads abandoned on the dance floor when the party was over.
This is why, though the dresses remained the quintessential symbol of the times, so few of them remain today. By attentive restoration, we have been able to present examples of these dresses as they appeared when they first shone, as well as fascinating examples of dresses in different stages of the construction process.
From the collection of LMLT; conceived of and curated by the LMLT staff
Running from November 16, 2019—Extended end date TBD
Carla and Carla Vintage snagged some of our very last deadstock 1940s slips! If you haven't seen these already, they're slinky-sleek cold-pressed bias-cut rayon, full-length slips, they feel like a dream, and they're absolutely to die for. And now, there are only two left.
In February, Barbara of Becoming Downton/One Moon Mercantile purchased an LMLT Museum Membership (which entitles her to free entry to our exhibits, discounts on classes, books, AND in our Etsy shop!) She wrote, "As a lover of lace and textiles, I love what this membership gives you! They are as helpful as anyone I've ever worked with, and I've already learned so much! Thank you! Keep up the good work!" Thank you, Barbara! We appreciate your love of lace and textiles, and your support means the world to us.
And stylish Etsy customer Jasmine exercised her impeccable fashion sense when she snapped up this breathtaking 1960s braided mink fur hat. What a delicious statement piece—and warm, too! We can absolutely see it elevating her outfits to the next level.
Remarkably, this item hasn't sold yet, despite being marked as a "Favorite" by no fewer than eleven different Etsy users—this month alone!
It's a hand-sewn 1930s cotton patchwork quilt. It's comprised of prints that were clearly clothing scraps and Depression Era feed sacks, with many charming floral motifs. Its softness and the soothing color palette suggest it could have very well been made for the nursery. We even spotted the most incredible circus monkeys, swinging among the prints. Check out the listing and see if you can find it, too!
This unique textile treasure has all the country charm and softness that we love in antique quilts, and over the generations it's been well loved and laundered. There are many seams that are open, pieces of batting sticking out, and threadbare areas... but our sense is that the distressing simply adds to the charm. The block patterns include 4 Point Stars (strip-pieced), Hourglass Centers, and sashes in a multicolor floral ditzy print.
This is a treasure we could definitely see someone loving restoring, or up-cycling into a cool jacket like Molly's. Make it yours... or simply mark it as a Favorite, so we can see how many of you adore it, too!
In this postcard illustrated by "ED", you can see that, just like so many of our Lacis friends and customers who come to us for sewing supplies and materials, the arts and crafts-loving Girl Scouts are proud of their self-sufficiency, resourcefulness, and sewing skills!
Especially at its inception, Girl Scouts would make their own uniforms at home. We know that many of you vintage clothing enthusiasts are fans—and collectors!—of these fascinating GS looks, and we thought that taking a look at the evolution of these uniforms would be an interesting and illuminating way to examine textiles, fashion design, and costume history in America—all topics falling within LMLT's very own special purview.
As of 2022, the Girl Scouts have existed for 110 years. And, as one would expect, over the decades, the style of their uniforms have evolved right along with women's fashion.
We thought for Women's History Month, and in celebration of Girl Scout Week (this year, it's March 7th through the 13th), we'd honor those creative, crafty, intrepid young civic-minded girls and their venerable yet ever-youthful grassroots organization... and their very special regalia.
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This way to Girl Scout Uniforms Through the Ages! |
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Don't forget, Lacis Museum Members receive 20% off of books purchased in our Museum shop
La Dentelle: Dans L'Art Contemporain by Blandine Pouzin
LJ48 $55
At long last...! Now available at Lacis is the French title from Un Dimanche Aprés-Midi ("A Sunday Afternoon," creative publishers par excellence), La Dentelle: Dans L'Art Contemporain ("Lace in Contemporary Art," exactly our cup of tea).
Written by Blandine Pouzin, an author who has previously expounded on the "virtues, secrets and flavors" of olive oil—though that book, too, is in French—this gloriously produced tome explores "artistic expression in lace through the works of 30 international artists," including a fabulous two-page spread addressing the work of Kaethe Kliot (see photo right), avant-garde lace maker extraordinaire and original founder of Lacis.
La dentelle de Craponne by Odette Arpin
LJ40 $42
The history of the unique floral patterns of Craponne bobbin lace, and how to accomplish them. Yes, it's in French, but a determined bobbin lace maker will not be deterred. The pattern diagrams are printed vividly and true to scale, and the whole book is repete with excellent photos. Even if you only actually attempt one or two of them, you're sure to be inspired by the rest—the distinctive lace of Craponne is exceptionally pretty.
Knitstrips by Alice Ormsbee Beltran and Karen Kim Mar
HA46 $27.50
This book is funny, sweet, and the most un-intimidating way to introduce someone to the world of knitting. Not just the how-to of knitting and purling itself, but the myriad issues that have plagued and intrigued knitters through the ages. In all the colorful clarity of a comic strip format, the focus is on a personal approach in learning and working over 20 patterns.
Knitted Socks from Finland by Niina Laitinen
UQ71 $24
These 20 socks—five for each season of the year—are colorful and cute, and surprisingly contemporary. This is for seasoned (or just plain ambitious) knitters, however. Check out the "Cherry Blossom Time" pattern under the chapter heading of "Spring," for example. Laitinen's original sock design depicts nothing less than an entire geisha figure, intricately rendered in black and white, with her kimono wrapping around each foot in a clever and fascinating way.
Handknits from Rauma by Bente Presterud
TU43 $27
This book contains everything you could ever possibly want to knit (but make it Norwegian): socks, sweaters and cardigans—including a cute hooded cardigan!—a vest, dresses and pants, mittens, a shawl, slippers, a hat. The pants, by the way, are part of a matching top-and-bottom set, with a comfy pullover for the top portion, perfect for our newfound appreciation for loungewear. And we promise, the Spotted Socks pattern is utter perfection. We daresay it's worth buying the entire book if only for that.
Tambour Beading for Beginners: Classic Art of India Embroidery by Dina Moritz
GH50 $15
Curious about tambour? This is a quick, approachable, highly portable little read on the topic that will give you a better understanding about what, exactly, tambour entails. The large-format text is also easy on the eyes.
Advanced Wooden Yarn Ball Winder
TT94 $80
This essential gadget for the frequent knitter quickly transforms a skein of yarn into a convenient ball with the simple turn of a hand-crank!
Now, we'd never seen a wooden ball-winder before. All our ball-winder devices, previous to this, have been made largely of plastic. If you're a knitter who's grown sick of all the shiny petroleum byproducts and garish artificial coloring of this modern world, then this warmer, more far more aesthetic option should cheer your heart. Doesn't it look like something a skilled woodworker lovingly crafted in their shop, just for you?
Next month, Kij Greenwood, manager of the LMLT, will feature as the Fashion Guest of Honor at the steampunk convention Clockwork Alchemy. Let's take this opportunity to turn our spotlight on her extraordinary adventures, notable accomplishments in craft and artistry, and her inspired—and inspiring!—life in costuming!
On the left, Kij strikes a pose in the Action Bustle. On the right, you'll see her Ruth Bader Ginsberg tribute collar. Both are currently on display at Lacis!
If a random stranger were to stumble onto a photo reel from Kij Greenwood's life, they might take her for a time-traveler, or perhaps a dragon-taming sorceress. But upon closer inspection, they'd quickly realize that she is an incredibly talented and creative professional costumer, as well as a vintage-clothing enthusiast.
Kij's life has always been rich in costumes. Store-bought Halloween getups were anathema in her childhood home. Kij's mother, ever resourceful, crafty, and creative herself, always cooked up the best costumes, and the whole family was active in the local community theater. As a result, the bedroom Kij shared with her two sisters growing up was like stepping into a closet full of wonder, packed with costumes beyond your wildest imaginings, ranging from fantastical beasts (giant ostriches!) to unexpected characters (matadors! St. Thérèse of the Roses! Upside-down football player!)
Where it all began: In 1962, Kij's whole family dressed in costume to celebrate the 150th anniversary their beloved historic hometown of Fairhaven, Massachusetts.
Kij's earliest pastimes didn't just include sewing clothes for her Barbies—by the time she was in elementary school, she was designing a colorful array of ensembles for imaginary interplanetary beauty pageants.
It makes sense that she ended up in the costume department designing for the theater, ballet, and opera in Boston, MA and Houston, TX. She's even designed complex, colossal mascot costumes for Disney and Nickelodeon. Naturally Kij is active in the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild, but she's also a member of the Art Deco Society, which allows her to indulge her love of vintage.
Clockwork Alchemy is a convention close to Kij's heart—she's been attending for as long as it's been in existence. This year, many of her original costumes be among the fabulous ensembles seen modeled in the fashion parade, and she'll lead a workshop on scrimshaw etching (a tribute to her Massachusetts whaling town origins).
Congratulations, Kij! This recognition is well-deserved and we proudly applaud you!
Our talented visitors are always making the most interesting & beautiful things.
We love it when you share your creations & their stories with us!
Recently, elementary school educator, talented quilter, and kumihimo artist Laura Duggan treated us to the stunning vision of her swirling stars quilt. Our jaws hit the floor.
Laura's been laboring on it since July, and it's now fully basted down and ready for hand-quilting. What a feast for the eyes! A committed English paper-piecer in terms of technique, Laura's going to embellish this surface with pearl cotton and cordonnet threads in a simplified sashiko-style pattern (you can just spy the beginnings of this process in the photo on the right).
Much of the hard work of choosing the colors to create the rainbow gradations, she says, was already done for her: she used a jelly roll of printed cotton from V & Co. that contained the entire spectrum of colors in order and ready for deployment. Their fabrics, most conveniently, produce spectacular ombré effects without presenting any agonizing decisions for the quilter.
And no, we know what you're all wondering—it's won't be a hexagon when it's finished. It'll be a rectangular quilt, perfectly suited for a queen-sized bed. And we are so jealous. Can you imagine a better blanket for dreaming under?
Amazing work, Laura. Thank you for sharing your gorgeous masterpiece-in-progress with us. You're a true inspiration!
Interested in taking a class? You can drop off your completed registration form in person during business hours, email it to us, or simply give us a call to enroll!
Tatted Hearts
with Kevin Baum
For Valentine's Day, Kevin taught an intrepid new tatter how to make intricate lacy heart motifs! What a great way to learn how to read patterns—and celebrate the year's most romantic holiday.
In fact, we can think of a million ways cute tatted hearts could come in handy, year-round...
Beginning Tambour: A Two-Session Workshop
with Zoya Parkansky
Easy Lunardi Hats, 1780-1820
with Catherine Scholar
3-Petal Flower with Vintage Ruffled Edge
with Patrice Krems
Saturday, March 12 — 12:30 AM to 5 PM
$55 + $20 kit fee (payable to instructor)
Learn how to make this exquisite vintage 1920s-inspired, hand-gathered Ruffled Edge 3-Petal Flower with leaves and a bud using thread for the stamens. This dramatic and exquisite flower can transcend an ordinary garment with an over-the-top accessory or can be attached to a pillow, crazy quilt or any other project.
Beginning Bobbin Lace
with Eva Gergely
Saturday, March 19 — 10 AM to 4 PM
$65 + $64 bobbin lace kit (less 20% for students)
Bobbin lace is the classic lace of Western civilization, captivating virtually every culture since 1500 when it became a very necessary and expensive part of fashionable clothing.
Bobbin lace making is a multi-thread technique based on two basic motions working in a plaiting fashion using no more than four threads at a time. The threads, worked in the hands, require minimal eye acuteness, making it accessible to students of all ages.
This class will cover preparation of materials, the basic motions, and the basic stitches and grounds based on these motions.
Continuation Bobbin Lace
with Eva Gergely
Saturday, March 26 — 10 AM to 4 PM
$65
Designed for those who have already taken the Beginning Bobbin Lace class, as well as anyone else who is familiar with the basic motions and stitches of Bobbin Lace (Whole Stitch, Half Stitch, Linen Stitch). You will learn how to combine the various stitches and create simple patterns, motifs, grounds and spider stitches; as well as the basics of Torchon Lace and Idrija Lace, and how to use a crochet hook for basic joinings.
Beginning Tatting
with Kevin Baum
Saturday, April 2, 2022 — 12:30 to 4:00 PM
This class concentrates on the double stitch, which all shuttle tatting is based on. Once this first step has been mastered, we will learn to make rings and picots, and then how to connect rings through picots. The goal of these classes is to create, with practice, a simple edging of connected rings and picots.
The Pocket: An Essential & Practical Historic Accessory
with Catherine Scholar
Saturday, April 9, 2022 — 12:30 to 4:30 PM
Before the 19th century, a woman's pocket was a separate accessory item, not a feature built into a skirt. Women carried their personal necessities in these pockets which were tied around the waist, including items like keys, thimbles, handkerchiefs, spectacles and coins. It was bit like a fanny pack or money belt today.
In this class we will hand-sew our very own pockets, to use with costumes or just for everyday practical fun. Appropriate period embellishments will be discussed. This class is perfect for both people new to hand-sewing as well for those with more experience.
Clones Lace: Irish Crochet
with Máire Treanor
April 20—23, 2022 — 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM
$300 for all 4 days
(or $100/day with a $200 minimum)
Learn to make Irish crochet lace! Students just need to know how to chain stitch, single crochet, and double crochet. You'll learn how to make the sumptuous, wildly organic motifs that comprise gorgeous Clones lace: the small rose, the large wild rose, shamrock, vine leaves and grapes...
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Calling all quilters!! Save the date on March 26 & 27 to join the East Bay Heritage Quilters for their annual Voices in Cloth extravaganza. In addition to 200+ fabulous quilts, you'll see:
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Hey, lovely lace-makers! Did you know the Doily Free Zone is offering TEN scholarships for students currently enrolled in tertiary courses of: Art, Fashion, Textile & Industrial Design, Architecture, Engineering and Mathematics? One scholarship will be given every month until the symposium in June 2022. Winners get to attend the DFZ 2022 Symposium AND lifetime access to all the Lace Camp workshops! |
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The Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles is a 501(c)(3) non-profit corporation. We are a unique legacy museum located in Berkeley, California. We host a wide range of hands-on workshops, several galleries of rotating exhibits, and our Museum Shop carries an extensive supply of vintage goods, craft- and costume-related books, and needlework supplies.
Our purpose is to:
• Preserve lace and textiles of all cultures from all periods
• Provide a resource center for research and documentation of these objects
• Educate and disseminate knowledge of lace and textiles
For just $25.00, you can become an official, card-carrying Lacis Museum Member for a year—and enjoy exclusive benefits! Get your membership via our Etsy shop, or alternatively, contact us in a number of other ways to join this vitally important circle of Lacis friends. We thank you for your support!
• 10% discount at our Etsy shop for purchases over $50
• 20% off books purchased at the Lacis Museum shop
• Free museum admission for you and up to (4) guests
• Special invitation to show openings
• Class discounts
A Message from Our Director
Ukraine is under attack from its most powerful neighbor in the evolution of civilizations when such an action was deemed impossible, all agreeing that it could only escalate and end civilization as only Hollywood could imagine.
A nation that I only know through its beautiful needlework, always incorporating the symbols of life journeys, eternity, strength, and vital energy. Manipulating threads of vibrant colors, primarily by counted thread techniques which invites participation by hands of all skill levels is universal. A universal language where all can participate... and they do, creating strong bonds between all Ukrainians. To conquer such a nation is to still these hands and to destroy life as we know it.
Let us not ignore this plight and the seed of aggression.
—Jules Kliot, Director
The Lacis Museum of Lace & Textiles
2982 Adeline St.
Berkeley, CA 94703
